Exterior Cladding in Barnham Broom

Expert Exterior Cladding
in Barnham Broom

What exterior cladding involves

Exterior cladding is a purpose-built boarding system fixed to the outside face of a wall, separated from it by a ventilated cavity and a breather membrane. It is not simply nailed to the brickwork. The cavity allows any moisture that finds its way behind the boards to drain and dry out, rather than sitting against the wall structure. Without that ventilation gap, any system - regardless of the material - will eventually cause problems.

A well-specified cladding job includes the membrane, the battens, correctly chosen boards, stainless steel fixings, and properly formed flashings at every junction: around all windows and doors, at eaves, at the base of the wall and at any corners or abutments. The aesthetic transformation is the part homeowners notice. The detailing is the part that determines whether the system lasts twenty years or starts failing in five.

Choosing a material: what matters for this kind of property

The main systems available for domestic use are timber, composite and fibre cement. Each has a different balance of upfront cost, ongoing maintenance and appearance.

• Timber - western red cedar, larch and pressure-treated softwood are all used. Timber cladding has a natural warmth to it that manufactured boards do not fully replicate. It needs periodic treatment to stay in good condition - staining or oiling depending on species - and the treatment interval varies with exposure. Installed cost typically falls in the range of £60-£120 per square metre for a straightforward domestic elevation.
• Composite - a blend of wood fibre and polymer that is manufactured to look like timber. It does not rot, does not require staining and holds its colour for many years without intervention. It costs more at the outset than softwood timber, generally £90-£160 per square metre fitted, but the maintenance saving over a decade tends to offset much of that difference.
• Fibre cement - heavy, dense boards pressed from cement and cellulose fibre, supplied factory-primed or factory-painted. Dimensionally stable, non-combustible and very long-lasting as a substrate. The paint finish will eventually need refreshing, but the board itself is not prone to rot or warping. Installed cost typically ranges from £80-£150 per square metre depending on panel size and profile.

Prices vary with building height, scaffolding requirements, the complexity of the elevations and local supply costs. Always ask for a breakdown of labour and materials so you can compare quotes on a like-for-like basis.

Signs that existing cladding is failing

A common problem with older timber cladding is rot starting at the base of the lowest board. The end grain at the bottom is the most vulnerable point - if it was not properly sealed at installation, moisture enters the board from below and the rot works its way up. The boards above can look fine while the bottom course is already structurally compromised.

Failed fixings are another frequent issue. Screws that were not stainless steel will rust over time. The rust staining runs down the board face and the fixing itself loses its grip, allowing individual boards to flex and eventually to pull away. On composite systems, delamination at the board edges - particularly on cut ends that were not sealed - is a similar failure pattern.

Where the breather membrane behind the cladding is missing or has been damaged, damp can penetrate to the wall structure. Persistent damp patches on an internal wall surface, particularly at low level, are worth investigating from outside before assuming the cause is condensation or a plumbing issue.

The installation sequence

Before any boards go up, the existing wall needs to be assessed. This determines the fixing method, whether insulation can be incorporated in the cavity, and whether any remedial work to the wall surface is needed first. On a solid brick wall, the approach differs from a timber frame construction, and both differ from a property where old cladding is being stripped and replaced.

Horizontal or vertical battens are fixed to the wall over the membrane, creating the drained and ventilated cavity. Boards are then fixed to the battens - never directly to the masonry. All fixings on timber boards should be pre-drilled to prevent the board splitting at the fixing point, and stainless steel used throughout. Flashings at every junction are formed before the surrounding boards go on, not added as an afterthought.

What to do while you wait - and what not to do yourself

If you have booked a cladding installation or a repair survey and there is a delay before the work starts - which happens, particularly in summer when demand for external work is high - there are sensible things you can do in the meantime, and some things you should leave alone.

Temporary protection you can manage safely

If a board has cracked, split or pulled away from the wall and there is a visible gap, water will get in every time it rains. A temporary measure while you wait for the proper repair is to press the board back against the wall and apply a wide strip of self-adhesive flashing tape over the joint. Use a flashing tape sold for roofing or cladding work - the grey or silver type - not decorators' masking tape or duct tape. It will hold for several weeks in wet weather and genuinely keeps water out.

If the failed section is at a corner and the board has pulled away from the corner trim, a bead of exterior-grade flexible sealant pressed into the gap and tooled smooth will provide a temporary seal. It is not a long-term fix, but it prevents water tracking behind the corner detail until the repair is made.

Containing the damage from a displaced board

A board that has shifted or bowed outward is a water entry point, but it also puts mechanical stress on the boards either side of it as wind load moves it back and forth. If you can see a board that has noticeably moved, the simplest thing is to put a screw through the face of the board into the batten behind to hold it in position temporarily. Pre-drill the board to avoid splitting it. Use a screw that is long enough to reach the batten - typically 65mm is sufficient. This prevents further movement and reduces the water entry risk until the proper repair is done.

What to clear away from the base of the cladding

If there is soil, bark mulch, leaves or plant debris banked up against the base of the cladding, clear it back before the contractor arrives. The bottom boards are the most vulnerable part of any cladding system, and anything that holds moisture against them accelerates deterioration. This is a five-minute job that protects the boards and gives the installer a clean starting point.

Things to leave to the contractor

Several things that look straightforward are worth leaving alone until the proper work is done.

• Do not remove boards yourself. Even a board that is clearly rotten and loose is attached to a batten, and removing it can disturb adjacent fixings or pull the membrane. Boards that look like they are sitting loose may have their fixings deeper in than they appear.
• Do not apply fresh stain or paint to boards that are about to be replaced. It is natural to want to tidy things up, but painting a board that is going to be stripped off wastes money and time. If some boards are being kept and others replaced, the contractor will advise on finishing after the new boards are in.
• Do not seal cracks with expanding foam. Expanding foam in cladding joints holds moisture, can push boards apart as it expands beyond the joint, and has to be fully removed before any proper repair is possible. A strip of flashing tape is a better temporary measure.
• Do not attempt to refix a significantly warped board by forcing it flat and screwing through. A board that has warped badly has usually done so because it is saturated. Forcing it flat splits the board face and the fixing point becomes a water entry point. Leave it for assessment.

Checking drainage around the house

One thing that is genuinely useful to do before installation work begins is to check that gutters and downpipes are clear and discharging properly. A blocked gutter overflowing onto cladding below it is one of the most common accelerators of board failure at upper levels. Clearing the gutter takes half an hour and removes one significant source of moisture before the new cladding goes on.

What questions to prepare for the survey visit

When the contractor comes to assess the work, the more information you can provide, the more accurate the quote will be. Useful things to know or find out in advance:

• Whether the building is timber frame or solid masonry - this affects the fixing method and the cavity design
• Whether there is any existing insulation in the external wall, and if so what type
• Whether any boarding has been removed and replaced before, and when
• Whether you want the opportunity to add insulation in the cavity as part of this project (it adds cost but is most efficient to do at the same time as a reclad)
• Whether any window or door replacements are planned - cladding should ideally be done after new frames go in, not before

Access: making the site ready

Scaffolding or a mobile elevated platform is required for most two-storey cladding work. It is worth thinking about vehicle access - scaffold lorries and material deliveries need a route to the property. If there are gates, parked vehicles or narrow access points, flag these to the contractor before the start date. Clearing a strip of garden along the affected elevation, moving planters or garden furniture, and trimming back any shrubs that press against the wall all make the start of the job smoother and can reduce the labour time on the first day.

Covering Barnham Broom and the wider area

We work throughout Dereham and the surrounding villages, including Barnham Broom and other nearby places. We also cover Watton, Swaffham, Fakenham and the Norwich area for cladding projects of all sizes.

If you are not sure whether your cladding needs a repair, a section replacement or a full installation, a site visit can help you reach a clear answer, and a written price breakdown is worth asking for. Partial replacements are often possible if the structure and battens behind the failing boards are in good condition - it is not always necessary to strip the whole elevation.

Get a price for exterior cladding near Barnham Broom

A full reclad of a larger detached home in fibre cement, including scaffolding, can run from £10,000 to £18,000 or more depending on the property. This is an honest working range - the actual figure depends on your specific wall area, material choice and building access.

When booking a survey, ask for a written quote with a clear labour and materials breakdown.