Dereham Roofers fits and replaces exterior cladding for homeowners in North Tuddenham and the surrounding Norfolk villages, using timber, composite and fibre cement systems chosen to suit your property and budget.
Exterior cladding is a secondary skin fitted over your existing wall construction. It keeps wind-driven rain off the structural wall behind it, adds a layer of thermal resistance, and changes the look of the property completely. Done properly, it can transform a tired render finish or ageing brick face into something that looks sharp and requires far less upkeep than the original surface.
The cladding itself is not a waterproof membrane on its own. A correctly installed system includes a breathable membrane or breather board behind the panels, a ventilated cavity so moisture can escape, and correctly detailed flashings at every junction - around windows, at eaves, soffits and at ground level. Cut corners on any of those and the wall behind will eventually suffer.
Each material has real advantages and real drawbacks. The right choice depends on your wall type, your budget and how much ongoing maintenance you want to take on.
Price ranges above are broad guides for a straightforward domestic installation. The final cost depends on the height of the building, scaffolding requirements, the complexity of the wall (bay windows, reveals, dormers), the existing wall condition and the quantity of materials. Ask any contractor to break down labour and materials separately so you can compare quotes properly.
On many properties where cladding has been in place for fifteen years or more, a common problem is rot or delamination starting at the bottom board. This happens because end grain - the cut edge of a timber or composite board - is left unsealed, water sits in the gap between the bottom board and the DPC, and the fixing screws begin to rust or pull through. The boards above look fine; the bottom one or two are failing badly.
Another common issue is a missing or poorly lapped breather membrane behind the boards. Without it, any moisture that gets through a joint in the cladding sits against the masonry or timber frame behind with nowhere to go. Damp patches inside the property, particularly low down on a wall, can be a sign of this. Replacing the cladding gives the opportunity to fit the membrane correctly and, if required, add insulation in the cavity at the same time.
Failed sealant and incorrect flashings around window frames are also typical failure points. The junction between the cladding and the window frame or door frame needs a flexible, paintable sealant or a correctly formed flashing, not just a bead of clear silicone. Clear silicone in external cladding joints rarely lasts more than a couple of seasons before it peels.
We start with a survey of the existing wall. That tells us whether the substrate is sound enough to fix into directly, whether there is any existing insulation to work around, and what the wall build-up is. On a solid brick property the approach differs from a timber frame construction, and both differ from a property with existing failing cladding that needs stripping first.
Once the wall is prepared, horizontal or vertical timber battens are fixed to the wall over the breather membrane, creating the ventilated cavity. The cladding boards are then fixed to those battens - never directly to the wall face. Every fixing point on timber boards should be pre-drilled to prevent splitting, and stainless steel fixings used throughout to avoid rust staining on light-coloured boards.
Flashings at every window, door, eaves and ground level junction are formed before the boards go on, not afterthought additions once the boards are up. Getting those junctions right at the start is what separates a cladding job that lasts from one that starts leaking within five years.
This is where most homeowners lose money they did not need to spend. A cladding system that is looked after properly will last decades longer than one that is ignored. The good news is that maintaining cladding is not complex or expensive - it mostly requires noticing small things before they become large ones.
Once a year, ideally in autumn before the wet season arrives, walk around the outside of the property and look at the cladding from ground level. You are looking for:
None of these things will cause a crisis overnight. But each one will get worse through winter if it is left.
If your cladding is timber, the treatment interval depends on the product and the exposure. A factory-applied microporous stain on a sheltered elevation might last four to five years before it needs refreshing. The same product on an exposed gable facing prevailing weather might need attention every two to three years. Run your hand along the board face - if the wood feels dry and rough and water no longer beads on the surface, it is time to treat.
Clean the boards with a suitable wood cleaner before applying any treatment. Applying stain over algae or dirt traps moisture underneath the finish. Allow the boards to dry fully before treating - a dry spell in late spring is often better than an autumn application because the timber is less saturated to begin with.
Composite cladding does not need staining or oiling, but it does accumulate algae and dirt in the texture of the board face, particularly on north-facing elevations. A soft brush and diluted patio cleaner once a year keeps it looking good. Never use a pressure washer on composite boards at close range - high pressure water can force itself into the board joints and behind the system.
Fibre cement boards that were factory painted will eventually need repainting. The paint film is what keeps moisture out of the board face. Once it begins to flake or chalk badly, painting should not be put off for another season. The boards themselves last a very long time, but a failed paint finish left too long means boards that absorb moisture and eventually crack. Preparation before repainting - light sanding, a coat of primer to any bare areas - makes a significant difference to how long the new paint finish lasts.
Climbing plants, ivy and creepers look attractive but are one of the most damaging things you can allow to establish on a clad wall. Their roots and stems work into board joints, lift fixings, retain moisture against the board face and make inspection impossible. If you want planting against a clad wall, trained plants on a trellis fixed clear of the cladding surface - leaving an air gap - are a much better option than anything allowed to self-attach to the boards.
Similarly, soil or bark mulch built up against the base of the cladding traps moisture and encourages rot in the bottom boards. The bottom of the cladding run should sit clear of any soil level, with a visible gap down to the DPC or ground slab.
After any significant storm, it is worth walking around the property and looking for boards that have shifted. In high winds, boards on a gable end can be subject to significant uplift pressure. If any board has moved, or if there is any visible daylight behind the cladding at a joint, get it attended to before the next rain. A displaced board left in place is an open invitation for water to track behind the whole run.
Cladding sits at the junction of roofing and wall work. The flashings at the eaves, at verges and where the cladding meets the roof surface are as critical as any roof flashing. A roofer who also works on cladding understands how those junctions behave in wet conditions and how to seal them correctly. If a repair involves anything at eaves level or above the window heads, a contractor who understands roofing details is worth seeking out.
We work across Dereham and the neighbouring villages, including North Tuddenham.
If you are unsure whether your cladding needs repair, replacement or just a clean and a treatment, call us and describe what you are seeing. We can often give you useful guidance over the phone before any visit is needed.
Exterior cladding on a typical semi-detached property in this part of Norfolk runs from roughly £3,500 upwards for a partial elevation in composite or treated timber, through to £10,000-£18,000 or more for a full wrap of a larger detached home in fibre cement with scaffolding. Those are realistic ranges, not minimums designed to get us in the door. The actual figure depends on your property and the system you choose.
When you are ready, arrange a site visit and ask for a written quote before committing to any work. We will measure the elevations, assess the existing wall condition, and give you a clear breakdown of material and labour costs so you know exactly what you are paying for.
No obligation · We usually respond within 2 hours
Storm damage, active leak, damaged ridge - we aim to be on-site within 24 hours.
