Dereham Roofers fits exterior cladding for homeowners in Swanton Morley and the surrounding villages, giving ageing or weathered walls a durable, low-maintenance finish that lasts.
Exterior cladding is a layer of material fixed over your existing wall surface. It can cover cracked render, spalling brickwork, tired timber or any external finish that has started to let water in or simply looks its age. Done properly, it adds a weatherproof skin that requires far less upkeep than painted or rendered walls.
Cladding is not just cosmetic. A well-installed system keeps wind-driven rain away from the structure beneath, reduces heat loss at the wall line and can add years to the life of the fabric behind it. It is one of the more significant changes you can make to the outside of a house, so it is worth understanding exactly what the job involves before anyone starts.
The material you choose affects cost, appearance, maintenance and longevity. These are the systems you are likely to come across:
For most homes in and around Swanton Morley, uPVC and composite are the most practical options. If you are set on a particular look, it is worth getting samples to hold against the building before committing.
Understanding what actually happens on site helps you plan and know what questions to ask. Here is what a typical exterior cladding job involves, from start to finish.
Before any material is ordered, the wall needs a proper inspection. The condition of what is behind the cladding determines how the job will be priced and planned. Common problems found at this stage include damp patches in the render, sections of brickwork where the mortar has failed, and timber frames with rot at the base where water has been sitting.
Any structural faults need to be put right before cladding goes on top. Covering damp masonry without treating the cause will trap moisture and make things worse. A good installer will point this out clearly rather than just boarding over the problem.
At this stage you should also check whether planning permission is needed. In most cases, cladding a house does not require consent under permitted development rules, but if the property is in a conservation area or is listed, the rules are different. If you are unsure, your local planning authority can advise. A competent installer will flag this early.
Once the wall condition is confirmed, the installer measures the elevations to be clad. This is not simply length times height - windows, doors, soffits, corners and pipes all have to be accounted for. Waste needs to be factored in too, typically around 10-15% depending on the material and how many cuts are required.
Material lead times vary. uPVC boards are usually available quickly; some composite or fibre cement products can take a week or two to arrive. This is the point at which the start date becomes realistic rather than provisional.
For anything above ground-floor height, safe working at height requires scaffolding or a mobile elevated work platform. This is not optional and should not be skipped. For a typical two-storey house, scaffolding costs roughly £600-£1,200 depending on the size and how long it needs to stay up.
If scaffolding is being arranged by the installer rather than a separate contractor, confirm this is included in the quote and for how many days. On larger jobs it is sometimes erected in sections to allow access to different elevations in turn.
Most cladding systems fix to a timber or metal batten framework rather than directly to the wall. The battens create a ventilated cavity between the cladding and the wall behind. This cavity is important: it lets moisture escape and stops condensation building up behind the boards.
Before battens go up, a breather membrane is usually fixed to the wall. This lets water vapour pass out while keeping liquid water off the structure. Skipping the membrane is a false economy that can lead to damp problems later.
Battens are fixed at set centres to suit the cladding profile being used. They need to be level and plumb - any deviation here will show in the finished surface. Around windows and doors, extra battening is required to support the trim.
Most profiles start from the bottom and work upward. The bottom course is the most exposed to splashback, so the fixings and any starter strip need to be correctly positioned. uPVC boards clip or nail through a nailing slot that is hidden by the next board - you should not see any exposed fixings on the face of the finished job.
Corners, window reveals, soffits and any external pipework all need to be detailed carefully. These junctions are where most problems develop if the work is rushed. Silicone sealant is used at certain junctions, but it should not be used to hide poor fitting.
Each board needs to be checked for level as it goes up. On long runs, a small error at the start multiplies significantly by the time you reach the top of the wall.
Cladding on its own is not enough. The edges, corners, window surrounds and any junction with a soffit or roof line need purpose-made trims. These are not just cosmetic - they keep water out of the cavity and stop birds or insects getting in behind the boards.
Starter trims, corner trim, window architrave, top-edge trim and stop-end pieces all need to be fitted neatly and sealed where required. A job that is well clad but poorly trimmed will look unfinished and may let water in at the edges within a few years.
When the boards and trims are in place, the installer should walk round the whole job with you. Check that all trim joints are tight, that sealant has been applied where needed, that corner pieces are straight and that there are no gaps at the top or bottom of the cladding run. Look at the job from a distance too - a good eye can spot any boards that are not sitting flush or are slightly out of level.
Ask the installer to show you how to clean the cladding and whether any periodic maintenance is needed. uPVC generally needs nothing more than an occasional wash down. Timber and some composite materials need treatment every few years.
A proper job ends with the site being left clean. Cladding work generates packaging, offcuts, old material stripped from the wall and fixings. All of this should be removed and disposed of by the installer. If scaffolding is being struck on the same day, allow time for that team to clear their equipment too.
Before the installer leaves, make sure you have any paperwork relating to the materials - product data sheets are useful if you ever need to match a board or trim in the future. Keep a note of the colour and profile reference.
A single-storey rear extension or garage typically takes one to two days once access is in place. A full two-storey house with multiple elevations is more likely to take three to five days on site. These times can extend if remedial work to the underlying wall is needed first.
Get at least two written quotes that break down materials and labour separately. This makes it easier to compare like for like. Ask to see a recent completed job, or at least photographs of similar work. A quote that does not mention the membrane, battening or preparation is either assuming you know what is included or leaving those items out to keep the price down.
Ask how the installer handles any damp or structural issues found once work has started. The answer tells you a lot about how they work.
Dereham Roofers works across Swanton Morley and the surrounding area, including nearby villages and the town of Dereham and the villages of North Elmham, Beetley, Wendling and Shipdham. If you are in or around Swanton Morley and want cladding assessed or fitted, call us to arrange a visit and a straightforward quote.
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