Understanding exactly what happens during a leadwork repair - from the first inspection to the final clean-up - helps you know what a proper job looks like and what to question if something seems wrong.
Lead flashings seal the critical junctions on a roof - where a chimney stack meets the slope, where a dormer cheek joins the tiles, where a valley carries water off two meeting slopes, or where a bay window roof butts up against a wall. When these fail, leaks follow. A proper repair is methodical. This page walks through every stage so you know what to expect when a roofer is working on your Attleborough property.
Before any lead is cut or stripped, a competent roofer needs to understand the full extent of the problem. That means getting onto the roof, not just looking up from the garden. A survey from ground level can identify obvious slippage or missing sections, but it cannot assess the condition of mortar in the raglet, the state of soakers hidden beneath tiles, or the condition of the timbers underneath.
From the roof, the roofer should check the lead itself for cracking, slippage and corrosion, the mortar pointing that holds the top edge of the flashing into the brickwork, the tiles or slates immediately around the flashing for any that have cracked or lifted during previous repairs, and - from inside the loft if accessible - whether any water has already reached the timber structure below.
Any signs of wet or stained timbers, damp insulation or daylight visible through gaps should be noted before pricing begins. These affect the scope of the job. A quote given without a proper inspection is likely to miss something.
Safe access is not optional. For most domestic leadwork jobs, this means a roofing ladder hooked over the ridge, with a scaffold tower or access platform at the eaves if the pitch or height warrants it. On taller properties or where work is needed on a chimney stack well above the ridge line, a full scaffold may be necessary.
If scaffolding is needed, it is usually hired from a separate contractor and the cost is passed on in the quote. This is normal and legitimate - do not be surprised if a chimney flashing job includes a scaffold element, particularly on a two or three-storey property.
The old lead comes off first. The mortar pointing in the raglet - the horizontal joint in the brickwork into which the top edge of the flashing is tucked - is raked out carefully. The lead is then lifted out. On a chimney, this involves the step flashings up each side, the front apron flashing at the base of the front face, and the back gutter behind the stack where the greatest volume of rainwater collects.
If soakers are present - individual lead pieces that sit beneath each tile at a stepped junction - these are also removed. Soakers are often overlooked in partial repairs, but they are subject to the same fatigue as the cover flashings above them and should be renewed at the same time.
Any mortar fillets (wedges of sand-and-cement used as a substitute for lead in some older repairs) are cut out at this stage. They cannot be patched - they need to be removed entirely before proper lead can be installed in their place.
Once the old lead and mortar are cleared, the raglet is cleaned back to sound brickwork. Loose debris is removed and the joint is checked for depth - the lead flashing needs enough depth in the raglet to be secured properly. If the existing joint is too shallow, the roofer may need to cut it deeper using an angle grinder with a masonry disc. This takes time but it is essential for a secure fix.
The roof surface beneath the flashing area is also inspected at this point. Cracked or broken tiles adjacent to the flashing are replaced now, before the new lead goes on, because accessing them afterwards would mean disturbing the new work. If the felt underlay beneath the tiles is visibly deteriorated in the area of a long-term leak, that should be flagged to the homeowner even if it is not part of the immediate leadwork scope.
New lead sheet is cut on site using snips or a sharp knife. The code of lead - its thickness - is chosen to suit the location. Code 4 is standard for step and cover flashings. Code 5 is used for back gutters and valley linings, where greater water volume and more thermal stress require a heavier sheet.
Dressing is the process of shaping the lead to fit exactly. Lead is malleable - it can be worked with a bossing mallet and dresser to form tight corners, neat soakers, and clean overlaps. Good dressing takes skill and patience. A flashing that is rushed or forced will spring back from the surface and leave gaps.
Each section of lead is limited to approximately 1.5 metres in length. Beyond this, thermal expansion and contraction cause the metal to work-harden and eventually crack. On a long chimney flashing, this means multiple sections with proper expansion joints between them, not a single continuous run.
Lead flashings are fixed in two ways: at the top edge into the raglet, and along the roof surface with lead clips. Lead clips - small strips of the same material - are fixed under the flashing and turned up to grip the edge. They allow the lead to move slightly with temperature changes without pulling free.
The top edge of the flashing is pushed into the cleaned raglet and wedged in place with lead wedges at regular intervals - typically every 450 mm. This is the standard fixing method. The lead is not simply pushed in and pointed over - the wedges are what hold it securely in the joint. Without them, the lead will creep out over time.
Once the lead is fixed and the wedges are in place, the raglet is re-pointed with a mortar mix suited to the age and type of brickwork. On older properties with softer brick, a lime-based mortar is often more appropriate than a hard sand-and-cement mix, which can cause the surrounding brick to crack as it shrinks. Getting the mortar mix right is often overlooked but it matters for both the longevity of the pointing and the condition of the brickwork around it.
The pointing is finished flush with the face of the brickwork, not proud of it. Proud pointing channels water towards the flashing rather than shedding it away.
A good roofer checks the finished flashings carefully before coming down - pressing along the edges, checking that laps and drips are correctly formed, and confirming that every wedge is tight. The roof tiles displaced during the job are re-seated correctly and checked for security.
All old lead, mortar debris, broken tiles and packaging are cleared from the roof and taken away. Old lead has scrap value, so some roofers offset this against material costs - it is worth asking about this at the quoting stage.
If the roofer noticed any other issues during the job - a cracked ridge tile, a slipped slate nearby, an area of felt that looks vulnerable - these should be communicated clearly before they leave, so you can decide whether to address them now or monitor them.
A straightforward chimney flashing on a single-storey or two-storey house typically takes one day for an experienced team. A complex chimney with a large back gutter, or a long valley lining, may take two days. Scaffold erection and removal adds time either side. If the job has been left to deteriorate for a long time and there is timber repair needed beneath, allow longer.
We carry out leadwork repairs and full flashing replacements across Attleborough and the surrounding area. If you want to understand exactly what a repair on your property will involve before committing to anything, call us to arrange a roof survey.
No obligation · We usually respond within 2 hours
Storm damage, active leak, damaged ridge - we aim to be on-site within 24 hours.
