If you have a leak around a chimney, dormer, or bay window near Bawdeswell, failed leadwork is the most likely cause, and choosing the right contractor to fix it properly makes all the difference.
Lead is used at every junction where a roof meets a vertical surface: chimney stacks, dormer cheeks, bay window roofs, valleys between two roof slopes, and parapet walls. At each of these points, water has to be directed away from the joint, and lead is the material that does it. Cut and dressed correctly to the right code thickness, a lead flashing will see out several decades without needing attention. Done poorly, it can fail within a few years, and the leak it causes is often hidden for months before staining appears on a ceiling.
The work involves cutting lead sheet to profile, dressing it into mortar joints in the masonry (called chases), fixing it mechanically with lead wedges, and sealing the chase with a flexible pointing mortar. On a valley, the lead is formed into a continuous gutter shape between the two slopes. On a chimney, separate pieces cover the front, back, and sides, with stepped flashings following the angle of the tiles. Each section expands and contracts with temperature changes, so correct length, laps, and fixing are essential to prevent cracking over time.
The most common problem is mortar-only fixings with no lead wedges. Mortar alone shrinks and cracks, and once the seal breaks, water tracks behind the flashing. Another frequent failure is undersized lead: lead comes in coded thicknesses (Code 3 through to Code 8), and lighter codes are not appropriate for exposed flashings or wide valleys. Code 3 is sometimes used to cut costs but it splits and tears far sooner than the correct Code 4 or Code 5 used on most residential flashings.
Old leadwork can also suffer from fatigue cracking caused by repeated thermal movement, especially on south-facing elevations where temperature swings are greatest. Sometimes the lead itself is sound but the mortar chase has eroded, leaving the top edge of the flashing open to water. In that case, re-pointing the chase and re-wedging the lead may be all that is needed, rather than full replacement.
Leadwork is a skilled trade, and not every roofer who lays tiles has spent time learning to dress lead properly. Before you agree to any work, it pays to ask the right questions. A contractor who cannot answer them clearly, or who becomes vague when pressed, is worth walking away from.
Ask specifically which lead code they intend to use and where. For chimney flashings, Code 4 is the standard minimum; for valleys carrying significant water flow, Code 5 is more appropriate. A contractor who cannot tell you the code, or who says it does not matter, has already told you something important about their standards.
The lead must be wedged into the masonry chase with lead wedges or clips, not just pushed in and pointed over. Ask whether they use lead wedges and what pointing material they use. A sand-and-cement mix that is too rigid will crack; a softer, flexible mortar is correct for lead chases.
On older properties, the existing lead may be reusable in part. A good contractor will assess this rather than automatically stripping everything out. If they recommend full replacement, ask them to show you why, either by lifting a section with you present or by taking photographs before they start.
A quote that says simply "replace flashings - £X" tells you very little. Ask for a breakdown that lists where the work will be done, what lead code will be used, and what scaffold or access equipment is included. This protects you if there is a dispute about what was agreed.
A roofer working at chimney height can see things you cannot from the ground. Ask whether they will check the chimney pointing, the lead soakers beneath the stepped flashings, and the condition of the tiles or slates immediately surrounding the flashing. You should not pay for a second call-out to deal with something they could see on the first visit.
When the work is finished, the flashings should sit neatly against the masonry with no gaps visible along the top edge. The mortar pointing should be flush and even. On a chimney, you should see a stepped flashing on each side, a front apron, and a back-gutter or soaker arrangement at the rear. The lead should not be painted over or covered with sealant unless there is a specific reason, which the contractor should explain.
Ask to see the work before the contractor leaves site, and ask them to walk you through what they have done. Any professional doing the job properly will be happy to do this. If they are reluctant, that is worth noting before you sign off and pay the balance.
Chimney leadwork on a standard semi-detached or detached house typically costs between £300 and £800, depending on the size of the chimney stack, the number of flashings involved, and the access required. Valley replacement runs from around £400 upward, again depending on length and access. These figures assume scaffold or tower access is included; if a contractor quotes without mentioning access equipment for a two-storey property, ask how they intend to reach the work safely.
We work across the villages around Dereham, including Bawdeswell. If you have a leak you suspect is leadwork-related, or you can see cracked or lifting flashings from the ground, call us to arrange a roof survey so we can give you a clear assessment of what needs doing and why. We will tell you the lead code we plan to use, explain the fixing method, and give you a written breakdown before we start.
No obligation · We usually respond within 2 hours
Storm damage, active leak, damaged ridge - we aim to be on-site within 24 hours.
