Lead Work in Fakenham

Expert Lead Work
in Fakenham

What leadwork actually is and why it fails

Lead is the material used to seal every junction where your roof meets a vertical surface. That means chimney flashings, step flashings up dormer cheeks, soakers between tiles and walls, aprons at the front of chimney stacks, and valley liners where two roof pitches meet. When it is fitted correctly to the right code thickness, lead is one of the longest-lasting materials in roofing. When it is fitted badly, it becomes one of the most reliable sources of hidden leaks.

The most common failures are: lead that was nailed flat rather than dressed and clipped; joints that were not properly lapped; lead that is too thin for its position; and mortar-only fixings that crack and drop away over a few winters. A poorly fixed flashing can look fine from the ground for years while water finds its way under the lead edge and into the roof structure below.

How to choose a leadwork contractor in Fakenham

Leadwork is a skilled trade in its own right, separate from general tiling. A roofer who can strip and re-tile a roof well may not have the same level of skill cutting, bending, and dressing lead. Before you agree to any work, it is worth spending a few minutes checking the specifics of how a contractor intends to do the job.

The key questions to ask before you sign anything:

• What code of lead will you use? Lead is graded by weight per square metre. For chimney flashings, the minimum should be Code 4 (1.8 mm). For soakers and internal gutters, Code 4 or 5. For valleys and parapet gutters, Code 5 or 6. A contractor who cannot answer this immediately, or who gives vague answers about "heavy-duty lead", is worth being cautious about.
• Will you use clips and fixings, or mortar alone? Lead must be mechanically clipped at the correct intervals. Mortar pointing over the top edge is a secondary weathering layer only, not the primary fix. Any contractor who plans to skip clips and rely on mortar to hold the lead is not working to a proper standard.
• How will you handle thermal movement? Lead expands and contracts with temperature. Lengths must be kept within the maximum stated in BS EN 12588. If a contractor plans to run a single sheet of lead up a long chimney flashing without stepped joints, the lead will eventually crack or buckle.
• Will the old lead be stripped back to masonry or brick before new lead is fitted? Laying new lead over old is rarely satisfactory. The underlying surface needs to be sound and clear of old mortar, failed sealant, or crumbling render before new flashings are fixed.
• Do you include pointing the chase or raglet joint? The top edge of a flashing must be tucked into a chase cut into the mortar joint, then pointed with fresh mortar or a suitable sealant. Ask specifically whether this is included or priced separately.
• Can I see a similar completed job? A straightforward question that tells you a great deal. A contractor confident in their work will have examples. Photos on a phone are acceptable.

What to look for in a quote

A written breakdown matters because leadwork quotes vary significantly depending on how much lead is being replaced, what access is needed, and whether the surrounding masonry or tiles need attention. A single chimney stack in reasonable condition typically needs around 4 to 6 metres of flashing material once you account for the apron, back gutter, and two sets of stepped side flashings.

Be wary of quotes that do not specify the code of lead being used, or that describe the work only in vague terms like "repoint and reseal flashings". Repointing the mortar cap on a flashing is a different job from stripping and relaying the lead itself. If you only need the former, make sure that is what you are actually paying for. If you need the latter, make sure the quote reflects full replacement, not a patch repair dressed up as something more substantial.

Roof junctions and where they weather fastest

Not all leadwork on a house ages at the same rate. South and west-facing slopes take the most weathering. Chimney stacks that project through the ridge tend to have more complex lead details than those on a slope, and the back gutter behind a stack is one of the areas most likely to pond water if the lead has lifted or cracked. Valley gutters between two roof pitches carry concentrated water flow and are under more stress than a simple flashing against a wall.

Dormers on older houses often have lead cheeks on the sides and a lead apron at the base. These are high-movement areas because the dormer frame expands and contracts independently of the main roof structure. Separation at the join between dormer and main roof is a common source of leaks that can be misdiagnosed as a tile problem when the real cause is a failed lead detail.

What good leadwork looks like once finished

When a leadwork job is done properly, the lead should sit flat against the surface it is covering, with no lifting edges or bubbling. Steps in a stepped flashing should follow the mortar courses of the brickwork. The mortar pointing into the chase should be neat and tight with no gaps. You should not be able to see daylight between the lead and the wall at any point. The lead surface itself should have a smooth, even finish - hand-dressed with proper tools, not hammered into shape.

If you are in Fakenham and want an honest assessment of what your leadwork actually needs, call us for a roof survey. We will tell you whether a repair is enough or whether a full strip and relay is the better option for your property.

Related roof services

Leadwork failures rarely happen in isolation. Once water has been getting in around a flashing, the rafters, felt, and boarding beneath can all be affected. A thorough inspection at the time of the leadwork repair is worth doing to check the condition of the surrounding roof structure. We also carry out tile repairs, ridge work, and pointing as part of the same visit where needed.